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Restoring a 1:16 Funny Car with Atlantis Tire Set #1012
Atlantis 1:16 Funny Car Rubber Tire Set #1012 is a replacement and upgrade set for compatible large-scale funny car projects. Atlantis identifies it as a newly tooled rubber tire set with one front set and two-piece rear slicks, designed to fit the company’s old Revell-derived 1:16 funny car wheels and chassis. The exact identifiers are Atlantis item 1012 and Muncle Mikes SKU AAN1012.
This is not a complete model kit and it is not a universal tire set for every 1:16 vehicle. The value of the set depends on matching the wheel, chassis, and stance of the project on your bench. The guide below explains how to verify that relationship, prepare the rubber parts, assemble the rear slicks, check the front tires, and finish the installation without inventing dimensions that Atlantis does not publish.
What comes in Atlantis tire set 1012?
Atlantis describes the set as molded in rubber and packaged in a bag with a header card. The official description states that it includes one set of front tires and two-piece rear slicks. The product photograph shows the front tires together with the separate molded components that form the rear slicks. Wheels, chassis parts, decals, paint, tools, and a complete funny car kit should not be treated as included unless the package in hand explicitly says otherwise.
The fit statement is specific: Atlantis says item 1012 fits its old Revell 1:16 funny car wheels and chassis. That makes the set useful for Atlantis reissues based on those classic tools and for restoration projects using compatible vintage Revell hardware. It does not establish automatic fit with every wheel marketed as 1:16 scale.
Confirm the project before removing the tires
Start with the funny car kit’s manufacturer, item number, wheel parts, and chassis. Compare the wheel diameter, width, bead area, and axle arrangement visually with the Atlantis product images while the tire parts remain attached to their runner. If you are restoring an older build, keep the original tires and wheels nearby as references, even when the old rubber has hardened, split, or become misshapen.
Scale alone is not enough. Two 1:16 funny cars can use different wheel profiles or rear-tire widths. Atlantis’s confirmed compatibility is with the company’s old Revell-derived funny car wheels and chassis. When the project uses aftermarket wheels, custom aluminum wheels, or another manufacturer’s kit, treat fit as unverified until the parts are dry-fitted.
Inspect the rubber before assembly
Check every component under good light. Look for a complete circular bead, an even sidewall, clean tread or slick surfaces, and no damage from packaging. A thin mold line or runner attachment point can often be cleaned carefully, but avoid removing surrounding rubber or changing the tire’s round profile.
Use a sharp tool only where necessary and support the part so it is not stretched during cleanup. Rubber can react differently from styrene, so do not assume that the sanding, solvent, primer, or adhesive used on the plastic kit will behave the same way on the tires. Test any unfamiliar product on a hidden area or a spare cutoff when possible.
Dry-fit the front tires to the correct wheels
Keep the front and rear components separated. The narrow front tires and large rear slicks serve different wheels and should never be forced across the wrong rim. Work one wheel at a time and press evenly around the circumference rather than stretching one side sharply.
Once a front tire is seated, inspect both sidewalls. The wheel should sit centered, the bead should be even, and the tire should rotate without an obvious wobble. Repeat the check on the second front assembly and compare the pair together. Matching left and right stance matters more than hiding a small detail that will not be visible after installation.
Plan the two-piece rear slick assembly
The rear slicks are specifically described as two-piece components. Before applying adhesive, determine how the halves meet and how the kit wheel supports or captures them. Some assemblies may be easiest to align around the wheel, while another project may allow the tire halves to be joined first. The package instructions and the wheel design should control that sequence.
- Match the halves. Pair components by shape and inspect the mating edges.
- Test the wheel relationship. Confirm that the wheel sits at the intended depth and that neither sidewall is reversed.
- Align the circumference. Rotate the halves until the outer profile is even and the joint does not create a step.
- Choose an appropriate bond only if needed. Standard plastic cement is formulated for styrene and should not be assumed to bond rubber. Follow Atlantis guidance or the adhesive manufacturer’s material instructions.
- Hold the shape gently. Use only enough pressure to maintain alignment; a tight clamp or rubber band can flatten the slick and create a permanent distortion.
After the assembly has stabilized, inspect the seam from the side and across the tread surface. Correct a raised edge carefully. Do not chase a perfectly invisible joint by removing so much material that the rear slick becomes narrow or uneven.
Check stance, clearance, and rolling alignment
Install the wheel-and-tire assemblies temporarily on the chassis before final body assembly. Place the chassis on a flat surface and check that all four tires make contact. View the model from the front and rear to confirm that the wheels are vertical unless the kit intentionally specifies another angle.
Turn each wheel and watch the tire’s outer edge. A visible side-to-side movement can come from an unseated tire, an uneven rear-slick joint, a wheel mounted off-center, or an axle problem. Identify the source before making a correction. Trimming the tire cannot repair a bent axle or a wheel installed at the wrong depth.
Then test body and chassis clearance. Funny car bodies sit low over large rear slicks, so check the wheel opening, inner body panels, suspension, and any nearby detail. The tire should not rub simply because the body is lowered into its finished position.
Finishing rubber tires without losing their character
New rubber can have a surface sheen that does not match the look you want for a finished race car. Before changing it, clean the tires with a method known to be safe for the material. Do not soak them in an unverified solvent. A gentle, controlled treatment is easier to reverse than an aggressive attempt to dull the entire surface.
If you plan to add sidewall lettering, confirm the decal or paint system is compatible with flexible rubber and that the lettering is appropriate for the specific car being modeled. The Atlantis item description does not promise sidewall markings. Apply any added graphics only after the tire fit and rear-slick seams are finished.
Weathering should support the intended presentation. A restored showroom-style funny car may need clean, even tires. A track-used build might justify restrained scuffing or dust, but heavy gray dry-brushing can make rubber look chalky. Compare the completed model at normal viewing distance before adding another effect.
Using set 1012 for vintage restoration
Old large-scale funny car kits often survive with usable plastic wheels and chassis parts but degraded rubber. Preserve the original tires even when they are no longer suitable for display; they document the starting state and can help confirm wheel orientation and stance. Photograph the model before disassembly, label each wheel position, and save any shims or spacers.
When the replacement set changes the car’s stance, do not immediately modify the chassis. Recheck wheel seating, axle position, and body clearance first. Atlantis states that the newly tooled set fits the old Revell-derived wheels and chassis, but an individual vintage build may have glue, paint buildup, repairs, or custom work that affects the result.
Storage and long-term care
Keep the finished model away from high heat, direct sunlight, and surfaces that may react with rubber. If the car will be displayed for a long period, support the chassis so the entire model’s weight does not permanently load one area of the tires. Rotate or inspect the model periodically and separate loose spare tires from painted parts unless material compatibility is known.
Retain the header card, SKU AAN1012, Atlantis item 1012, receipt, and installation notes with the model’s records. That information is especially useful when a future owner needs to distinguish these newly tooled replacements from original vintage tires.
Frequently asked questions
Is Atlantis 1012 a complete funny car kit?
No. It is a rubber tire accessory set. The wheels, chassis, body, and complete model kit are separate unless another listing explicitly includes them.
What scale is the tire set?
Atlantis identifies item 1012 as a 1:16 scale funny car tire set.
Which projects does Atlantis confirm it fits?
The manufacturer states that it fits Atlantis’s old Revell 1:16 funny car wheels and chassis. Other projects should be dry-fitted rather than assumed compatible.
Are the rear slicks one piece?
No. Atlantis describes the rear slicks as two-piece components. Their alignment should be checked carefully during assembly.
Can ordinary plastic cement be used on the tires?
Do not assume so. Plastic cement is designed for specific plastics and may not bond rubber. Use only a product whose instructions identify the materials involved, and test it before committing to the visible assembly.
Final assessment
Atlantis 1:16 Funny Car Rubber Tire Set #1012 fills a specific need: replacing or upgrading the rubber on compatible Atlantis and vintage Revell-derived large-scale funny cars. Its front tires, two-piece rear slicks, newly tooled rubber construction, and confirmed fit statement make it more useful than a generic scale label alone. The best result comes from verifying the exact wheels and chassis, dry-fitting every component, aligning the rear slick halves without distortion, and checking the completed stance before final assembly.
