Plastic Model Guides
Tamiya 300SL 24338: Build, Paint and Gullwing Door Guide
Tamiya’s 1:24 Mercedes-Benz 300SL, item 24338, is a project for enjoying the engineering beneath the body as well as its distinctive silhouette. The tubular frame, inclined inline-six engine and opening gull-wing doors give you several things to reveal on the finished model. Planning those views before painting makes the assembly sequence easier to follow.
This guide follows the standard 24338 kit. Tamiya lists the assembled model at 188 mm long, 75 mm wide and 53 mm high. Leave additional room around and above it if you want the doors or hood open; those measurements are not a promise that an equally sized display case will fit.
The 24338 kit and the finished result
Tamiya Mercedes-Benz 300SL Gullwing, 1:24 is an unassembled plastic model kit. Its features include the frame and engine, moving doors and hood, nylon intake mesh, plated details, synthetic-rubber tires, decals and metal transfers. Paint, model cement and finishing tools are separate purchases.
See the Tamiya 300SL 24338 kit for its current price, availability and gallery.
Choose what you want to show
The moving panels do not require a permanent open display. Keep the designated joints free of cement and use the supplied supports as instructed. The underguards and bumper arrangement, however, are decisions to make while you can still prepare the separate parts.
| Choice | What it changes | When to decide |
|---|---|---|
| Doors and hood | Closed panels emphasize the body shape; open panels reveal the cabin and engine. | Read the hinge and support diagrams before assembly; allow extra display clearance. |
| Underguards | Painted guards present a finished underside. Leaving the clear parts unpainted keeps the frame visible through them. | Before painting the guards or attaching them beneath the chassis. |
| Bumper arrangement | The manual provides European and U.S. bumper and license-plate choices, labeled A and B. | Before the indicated drilling and bumper assembly in step 22. |
Build a straight frame before adding the engine
When the item arrives, inventory it before separating pieces from runners or backing sheets. Find the clear parts, mesh, masking stickers, decals and metal transfers as well as the main plastic runners. Keep the small finishing sheets protected while working on the frame.
Photograph the box and contents before cutting or painting. Keep a short build note with the kit number, chosen bumper arrangement, paint codes and any fit corrections so you can repeat the finish or trace a problem later.
The first two instruction steps assemble the upper and lower frame. Several slender pieces meet at specific angles, so compare their orientation with the drawings before committing each joint. Remove only the excess material identified in the instructions. Use a stable work surface and support the assembly while its joints set according to the cement directions; the thin frame members are poor handles for later work.
The engine is built before installation in step 7. Paint its accessible details at the indicated stages, then fit it into the frame in the illustrated orientation. Its inclined position is part of the 300SL layout. The fuel tank, bulkhead and radiator work follows in the sequence, so avoid closing off an area simply because the main engine block looks complete.
Read the crossed-out cement symbol wherever it appears. The wheel and steering assemblies include joints that must remain free; applying cement to every contact point would defeat those instructions. Follow tool, paint and cement safety directions, and have an adult supervise a child’s assembly.
Plan the body, cabin and clear parts together
The instruction example uses a silver exterior and red interior, with TS-17 identified as the body color. Matching body-color areas include more than the large shell: check the hood, door pieces and wheel-center details before putting a color away. If you choose another finish, plan those related surfaces together rather than discovering an unpainted matching part at final assembly.
The dashboard receives small instrument decals and metal-transfer detail before the cabin is enclosed. Finish the seats and dashboard while access is comfortable. The gallery also shows a cream-colored interior with a red dashboard; that is a finishing example, not a statement that all interior pieces arrive in those colors.
Protect the windows while preparing the surrounding trim. The manual shows how to cut and place the supplied masking stickers and how the door glass and inner panels fit together. Test the seating before adhesive is applied, handle the glass by its edges, and choose adhesive according to the kit and material instructions. The clear-part gluing guide explains the separate issue of haze and visible adhesive marks.
Keep the gull-wing doors and hood working
The hood is fitted in step 14; the door interiors and door installation follow in steps 15 and 17. The diagrams mark the moving connections that must not be cemented. Follow the illustrated sequence and temporary holding method rather than gluing a panel closed to make a difficult fit disappear. Check for a misplaced component or finish buildup before applying force.
At the display stage, step 24 identifies B8 as the hood support and D19 as the door support. The support connections carry the no-cement symbol. The manual specifically says to remove D19 when showing a closed door. Put that support somewhere safe before lowering the door; do not try to close the panel against it.
Handle the finished model by stable lower areas, keeping pressure away from the doors, mirror and trim. Use the opening panels to pose the model, and handle their hinges and supports gently.
Finish the small parts without mixing their methods
The front intake uses nylon mesh cut to the manual’s actual-size pattern. Use the printed sheet at its intended size; a scaled phone image or resized print is not a dependable cutting template. Check the bumper A/B choice before opening its marked holes. The optional side mirror has its own preparation callout earlier in the body-painting step.
Water-slide decals and metal transfers have different instructions. The metal transfers are positioned with their carrier film, which is peeled away after the detail is attached; they should not be treated as decals to soak in water. Keep these materials separate on the bench and complete the small badges and trim with the finished paint protected.
300SL kit questions
Can the clear underguards stay unpainted?
Yes. Tamiya explicitly offers that choice so the tubular frame can remain visible after completion. Decide before painting and protect the clear surfaces during assembly.
Do I need to buy every tool shown before starting?
Check what you already own against the manual. It lists cutters, a modeling knife, tweezers, scissors and a pin vise with 1 mm and 1.5 mm drill bits, as well as paint and cement. Use the drill sizes only at the marked locations relevant to your chosen arrangement.
Can I display the doors closed after showing them open?
The kit is designed with moving doors. Follow the no-cement diagrams and remove the D19 support before closing a door. If it resists, stop and inspect the fit instead of pressing harder.
Is it a suitable gift for someone who wants a finished 300SL?
It suits someone who wants the assembly and painting project. A person expecting a ready-made car would still need to build and finish this kit, obtain supplies and allow time for the work.
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